Day 774: A-what? Akon!

I’ve listened to Akon before and enjoyed some of his songs. I especially enjoyed the fact that there didn’t seem to be very many lyrics to his songs, making it easier to remember. When I got to Benin, I realized that the Beninese also enjoyed Akon and probably for the same reason. Thus, when we got text messages from MTN that Akon was having a concert in Cotonou at the national soccer stadium, we decided to go.

The concert was supposed to start at 16h (4pm). We weren’t sure how concerts worked in Benin, but we figured that it probably would be foolish to arrive at 16h. But then Lucy came into the Peace Corps office and told us that her host family told her that they (MTN) might give away our seats if we weren’t there when they open up to the ‘masses’. We figured we would send a scout group to make sure that wouldn’t happen and decided to drink a few beers at a bar nearby our office. Around 18h (6pm) we decided to head over to the stadium. We beelined it straight to a bar in the parking lot and grabbed some dinner and negotiated with the bar owners to leave our helmets in their back room for 100F/helmet. After we met up with our scout group who were at another bar inside the stadium (much like where the concession stands are at in a US stadium).

After a few more drinks we decided that maybe we will miss Akon so we went into the stadium at 20h (8pm). Once inside the stadium we realized how wrong our thinking about this whole thing was. The stadium wasn’t even half full and there weren’t any bleachers, just concrete slabs that were arranged like benches (expected). We picked a spot and plopped down. Akon was supposedly coming on after five opening acts. They were on act number two. Good. Only three more acts to go.

Three acts, a bout of rain, two comedy acts (by a pastor and someone else), and three hours later, we were still in the same place. Then, over the loud speaker we heard that they were going to start the opening ceremonies because all the dignitaries had arrived. In honor of 50 years of independence this ceremony was a ‘skit’ of the history of Benin. It lasted a full hour.

The ‘skit’ was in local language and in French and would probably be considered incredibly inappropriate (there was a huge mascot-like person who had a huge nose, this was supposed to be the colonizing French), but the Beninese people around us seemed to be pretty captivated by the whole thing. Upon its completion the emcees came out (a man and a woman translator, who randomly seemed/sounded like our administrative officer) and asked us at least three times if, “WE [WERE] READY?!?” Then they told us, before the concert the associate mayor of Cotonou had a few words of welcome. We were all pissed (including the Beninese) mainly because speeches here take a really really long time. So after he was done the emcees asked us again if, “WE [WERE] READY?!?” and then they announced that the minister of some department had a few words of welcome. This was the first time we heard boos coming out of the Beninese (starting from the first speech Andrew, Lucy, and I tried to start an, “AKKKOOOON” chant, but that doesn’t work here). Once this minister took the stage a slight drizzle started to come down on us. Then the rain. I looked over at the Darrs and Kim and opened my mouth in disbelief. Kim had joked earlier that it was gonna rain right before Akon would start, resulting in his departure without giving us a show. The minister kept talking and once he was done the emcees asked us again if, “WE [WERE] READY!?!”

This time, they told us that Akon requested his fans to come to the field. This seemed like an impossible task for those of us who paid 5,000F because there were no stairs leading to the field. Of course, we silly Americans don’t understand that a 10+ foot drop isn’t that difficult if you really are desperate. And thus began the dash to the field by a couple hundred people. The announcer started telling people to come down slowly and “one-by-one” but it was already midnight and the drizzling was still going on. The people jumping from our stands were starting to get the hang of it when all of a sudden we see the gendarmes (guards) coming to beat the crap out of people doing this. Then Andrew yells out, “OH MAN!!!” Apparently someone was holding onto the rail and about to drop down to the ground level, but he misjudged his swing and landed square on his back, from 10 feet up. Haha.

After thirty minutes of these shinanigans there is a small crowd in front of the concert, but the announcer tells us that it is not enough.

Finally at 1:05 AM we here someone say (in good English), “Alright, let’s get this started.” And who rolls out on top of an explorer? That’s right, AKON. I don’t know why, but I was really happy that he actually showed up. I guess a few of the Beninese were happy too because someone almost pulled off his pants and then almost got run over by the procession of vehicles. After Akon made a round trip on the track, he returned to the stage and started off his concert.

Before starting his second song he told us all that we should get down on to the field and then started yelling, “Steve Lucas! Let the people in MAN! This is bullshit, let the people in!” He really doesn’t like this Steve Lucas guy and apparently Mr. Lucas had a lot of power over the gate. Ten minutes later Akon is still yelling at Steve Lucas and telling us to get down onto the field and that they will open up the gates for us. So, being true fans, we decide he is talking to us too and we run down the bleachers to find an entrance on the outside to get to the field. We run around to the backstage area because that’s the only door we see that might be open for us. As we are getting closer to the door we see a guy run back and get hit HARD on his legs by a baton carrying police man. Then, as he’s running away he gets hit again and again. I don’t think he did anything I think he was just asking to get in. We decide it is a bad idea to try to enter there and head to another gate. I look back to see if other people are following and see a lady. But this lady is only half a person. Apparently she fell into a gutter hole that wasn’t covered, half her body was in and half her body was sticking up outta the ground. She was unfortunately wearing all white.

We eventually make it all the way around the stadium and don’t find an entrance. Andrew and Brad are nowhere to be found. I look at Lucy, the Darrs, and a Niger PCV and we all look dejected. We decide to at least enjoy the rest of the show in another part of the stadium. As soon as we get in we see that Akon has left the stage. But he comes back in a few minutes. In a bubble. Yes, in a bubble. I look back at Lucy and I say, “That’s stupid.” Miranna comments that it is probably really hot in there. Then it dawns on me. He’s gonna walk in the bubble on top of the crowd! And he does. It was awesome.

The rest of the concert was pretty chill and a few PCVs made it down on the field. I talked to Andrew later and found out he was right next to the stage with Brad where they both ended up touching the bubble with Akon in it and was told (by Akon) to take off their shirts (only Brad did it though).

The funniest part about Akon being in concert here was the fact that not a lot of people understand English and Akon, ironically, doesn’t speak any French (he lived in Senegal for like seven or so years). At one point he started yelling at people to “BACK UP! BACK UP! Move over THERE!” for at least ten minutes. Andrew and Brad later stated that the people around them were asking them, “What’s he saying” (in French). That’s just funny.

All in all, a great experience. I ended up getting back to my hotel room at 4am. Sweet.